Edward Einowski - Email conversation on Hollows and Rounds

Hi Ed,
Good to hear you are enjoying your new snipe bills. Thanks for another order on the set of moulding planes! We have just had another big order on the
hollows and rounds so I am short a few planes, but I will have them ready to send away Tuesday. Thanks for your nice comments. I will contact you again
when I am sending your set with a tracking number.

Regards Terry

Hi Terry, Thanks for the note. I have been using moulding planes for about 40 years, working with restored antiques. So I am very familiar with the problems
traditional moulding planes have. As I was studying your planes on the internet (one does tend to study things before laying out several thousand dollars!),
I came to appreciate that, from what I could tell from the pictures, you have solved the basic problems with the traditional design. First, having a blade that does not taper is a 1000% improvement. Trying to adjust a traditional plane with a tapered blade with any accuracy is hit or miss
(even after 40 years of use) - and frustration with a wedge that is either too tight or too loose after an adjustment is monumental. So excellent move on that
end Second, the fixed brass wedge is simply amazing. Working in tandem with the wooden wedge, I find it simply does not come loose during the adjustment
process. Perhaps this is primarily the lack of a tapered blade, but it seems to be the fixed wedge plays a key role here. Third, perhaps because of the 4 degree skew, the planes seem to have no problem with ejecting chips. I suspect I could get it to clog, but with "normal abuse'
it doesn't seem to have any problem. Fourth, the brass boxing on the sole is great. My traditional snipes are almost always out whack and seem to need constant turning of the sole. So to have a
more durable sole on the most crucial part of the plane is fantastic. Two improvements you might consider: (1) If you put a bracket around where the cutter comes out of the top of the plane and set it up so that a thumb screw through the bracket met the end of the
blade, you could do extremely fine adjustments by setting the blade short of the sole and then using the screw to slowly bring the blade down. Sort of a
modification of the Norris adjuster or the Stanley block plane approach. (2) You could get rid of the wooden wedge entirely by designing the captured brass wedge in a two-piece rocker type assembly with a thumb screw coming
out of the top. The "rocker wedge" would be designed so that when the thumb screw presses the top of the cutter to the bed, the rocker flattens out against
the lower blade to get good contact to hold it secure. Of the two, (1) would be the most helpful. (2) might actually require more machining and expense than it is worth, given that your current design works so well. Best wishes. Ed Einowski

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Edward Einowski - Shoulder plane comments


The shoulder plane came in yesterday and my son just brought it over.  I've been down in the shop to do a quick ovolo to check out the plane.  
It is just fabulous! Using it for the pre-moulding plane cuts, it works better than a rebate because the lack of extension of the blade beyond the sides of
the mouth completely eliminate any chance of marring the adjacent surface. And unlike my Record shoulder plane, it doesn't weigh a ton and so is a real
pleasure to use. The fineness of the mouth puts the Record to shame! And as with the rest of your planes, it is the most easily adjustable plane with a wedge
that I have ever used.
As another quick note on the shoulder plane:  As I indicated, I have been using it in lieu of a rebate plane for creating the rebates and tracks needed for the
moulding planes to follow.  One thing I didn’t notice right away is that, unlike a traditional shoulder plane (like the Record or Stanley versions or any version with a traditional design), your shoulder plane NEVER clogs the escapement, but beautifully spits out the chips.  As you may know, traditional shoulder planes are difficult to use in lieu of a rebate because they tend to clog the escapement.  Bottom line:  I’ve decided to give up on rebate planes, and will in due course be adding different widths of your should planes to my tool kit.
I'm in heaven! Thanks. Ed Einowski

Daniel's Comment


I own your smoothing plane, spokeshave and tail vise and I've just ordered your smaller curved spokeshave made from bendee. I couldn't be more impressed and and besotted with your tools, fantastic work Terry and co.


Ludo's Comment

Hi Terry,
I would like to give you a return on my experience using your planes on soft pine. They perform extremly well and hold the comparison with Japanese planes and even may have an advantages: they take care of knots as they would of harder wood, and without complaining whatsoever, the plane doesn't chip. I get mirror like finishes on pine as I do with a lower angle kanna (japanese plane). If it came to obtaining the thinnest shaving out of perfectly homogenous Alaskan cedar, maybe a finely tuned Japanese plane would win. But for ease of use, set up, performance, my HNT smoothers, are the one I use most of the time.
The blades on my HNT planes have to be razor sharp though, hairs on forearm should shave with just a slight contact with the blade.
Still impressed, about 8yrs after ordering my first hnt plane!

Vic's Comments

Hi  Terry,
I bought a gidgee smoothing plane with tool steel blade from you when you were in Perth in April.
I had high expectations of it, so much so that I was in danger of being disappointed.
My expectations were exceeded however when I found what a brilliant lustrous surface your plane makes on Western Australian Jarrah.
Apart from superior plane construction, this must reflect some special quality in the blade metallurgy and heat treatment you use.
While I have other premium-performance smoothing planes, including the infill planes I made, their performance is beaten by your plane, and it is becoming my most reached for finish plane.
I mentioned these points to a meeting of the Hand Tool Preservation Society of WA last night, and a number of HNT Gordon plane users agreed that they also noticed a superior sheen after using your planes.
Vic Williams
The cart is empty

Hey Terry,
What are you playing at?? This plane's no bloody good at all!
How can I possibly take something that pretty into a dirty dusty workshop and scratch up lumps of wood with it? Came up very nice he sez? What a master of understatement. It is so beautiful that I can't even bring myself to put grubby hands on it and try it out yet! I put it together and it's sitting beside me on top of a veneered quarter sawn silky oak bookshelf, which it puts to shame. And anyway I don't need to try it because I already know your planes will true up the edge of a postage stamp. And probably take the ink off the face without hurting the paper as well!
What a privilege to have someone of such talent make me such a tool. Particularly in these days when so many people don't even understand what true quality actually is. (Did you watch "Longitude" on ABC recently? Somebody understood why old Harrison spent his lifetime inventing and perfecting the maritime clock.) I thought your stock planes were brilliant, and then you made me the little one which is just extraordinary. But this time you have really excelled yourself. I wish my old Dad had lasted long enough to see it. Truly fine tools delighted him endlessly, but he was never fortunate enough to have anything like this.
I think I'll just leave it sitting on the bookcase for a few more days.
With very sincere thanks,